Choosing the right rope for your rappel can be a tricky process. I wasn’t always sure what rope to use for my rappels, so I did some research on the subject and summarized it all below.
So what rope do you want to use while rappelling? Your choice of rope will vary based on what activity you intend to perform, but the best ropes for pure rappels are lightweight static ropes that are at least 7.7mm in diameter. The most important factor for rappelling rope selection is the diameter of the rope.
With proper technique and some practice, you can rappel on ropes as thin as 5-6mm. This is tough to do, however, and it often requires the use of either specialized devices, carabiners to add friction, or sturdy backup knots. For that reason, I wouldn’t recommend rappelling off of anything less than a 7mm rope. 8-11mm ropes will work better, and they’ll likely fit your rappel device better. There’s also the question as to whether you want a static or dynamic rope, which I’ll get in to in more detail below.
What Rope To Bring Rappelling?
This is a tough question to give an answer to, mostly because there’s so many different situations in which you may need to rappel. The most important question to ask yourself is: why are you rappelling? There are tons of different scenarios, each that would have a different rope to best suit its purpose.
The different situations in which you may need to perform a rappel are almost endless, but I’ll try to break down a few of the most common ones that I can think of below:
- Rappelling off of a climb: In this situation, you will almost certainly be using the same rope you were for climbing. Never climb with anything less than a high-quality, dynamic rope, that’s at least 10mm.
- Rappelling as the main activity: If you’re going out of your way to just rappel— such as going on a rappelling tour— you likely don’t need to carry a dynamic rope. Static ropes will be cheaper and will serve the same function; make sure yours is at least 7.7mm.
- Mountaineering: Mountaineering is a tricky one. You’ll likely only need the rope for rappelling, but there may come a situation in which you want to use it to protect a climb. Because of that, the best choice is either one 10mm dynamic rope, or a pair of 7.7mm dynamic twin-ropes.
- As a back-up: When scrambling or (so help you god) free-soloing, it can be useful to carry a backup rope in case you find yourself out of your depth. You want this rope to be lightweight and easy to pack. Because of that, I’m actually going to suggest a 6mm static rope. Make sure to practice with this beforehand so you know how to rappel off of it!
As I said before, there are tons of different scenarios in which you’ll need a rope to rappel, and which rope you want to use depends on those scenarios. Generally, if you think you’ll be using the rope for anything other than rappelling, bring a dynamic rope. If you’re sure that rappelling is all you’ll be doing, static ropes work just fine.
Now I’m going to talk a little bit about the different types of ropes and when you would need them.
Static and Dynamic Ropes
The distinction between a static rope and a dynamic rope is one of the most important ones to make when choosing a rope. The main difference is this: dynamic ropes are made of interwoven fibres that stretch when they are load-bearing, whereas static ropes do not stretch. This allows dynamic ropes to temporary lengthen, softening the impact of taking a fall. Because of this, dynamic ropes are essential for climbing; they allow you to safely absorb the impact of a fall, without risking whiplash or other injuries.
Static ropes have none of this stretching ability. This makes them far less ideal to fall on, but they have other uses. Static ropes are great for hauling gear or rappelling— activities that you know will never put any kind of dynamic force on the rope. Static ropes are also cheaper to purchase, which makes them more ideal if you’re on a tight budget.
Single Ropes, Half Ropes, Twin Ropes
If you’re searching different types of ropes, you may come across the above terms. They pertain more to climbing and belaying, but I’ll give a quick breakdown of what each means below:
- Single Ropes: Your classic climbing rope. You trail one piece of rope behind you and clip it in to each piece of protection. Usually from 9-11mm thick and perfectly safe to rappel from.
- Half Ropes: These are used for wandering routes, or sketchy trad lines where the protection is less than bomber. You clip only one of each rope in to each piece of protection. The ropes are also thinner— usually 8.1mm instead of 10.
- Twin Ropes: For this method, you carry two pieces of rope and clip each of them in to every piece of protection. The ropes will often be thinner, at around 7.7mm.
While they may seem confusing at first, all you really need to know about the ropes (in terms of rappelling) is their width. As I said above, anything over 7.7mm is definitely safe to rappel off of, whether it’s static or dynamic. One of the advantages of carrying twin or double ropes is that it doubles the length of a rappel that you’re able to perform.
Rappelling With a Thin Rope
As I’ve said above, there are certain scenarios— such as emergency rescues— in which you may elect to rappel from a rope that is less than 7.7mm. If you choose to do so, you need to ensure that you use proper technique to prevent the rope from slipping out of your rappel device. A few tips to doing this safely include:
- Choosing the right belay device: One of the main reasons I prefer an ATC to a gri-gri is because of its versatility. If the rope you’re using is too thin for a gri-gri, you’re pretty much out of luck. With an ATC or other device, however, there are techniques you can use to increase the amount of friction in your system.
- Tying backup knots: This is one of the best things you can do to stay safe. Using cordelette or paracord, tie a prussik or other auto-locking knot around your rope— below your brake hand— to stop it if you lose grip.
- Use extra carabiners: One of the simplest ways to increase friction within your system is to add more carabiners. The more times your rope has to thread itself around a carabiner, the slower it will feel through the system, and the more control you will have over your rappel.
- Use a hand/body wrap: The theory here is similar to that of the carabiners, except instead of equipment, you’re using your own body to increase friction. Wrap the rope around your hand or waist before feeding it through your rappel device to gain extra control.
Please keep in mind that this is not an exhaustive list, nor is it a suggestion to go out and try to rappel from a 5mm rope. Instead, it’s a few techniques that will increase your safety if you ever find yourself needing to perform a rappel on a thin piece of cord.
So, What Rope Do I Use?
I’ve covered a lot of ground in this article. The main point that I want to get at, though, is that the ideal rappelling rope depends on what situation you will be using it in. Factors to consider when selecting a rope include what you will need it for, what belay device you’re bringing, and how much weight you want to carry.
As I said above, for pure rappelling, my recommendation would be a 7.7mm static rope. It balances functionality, weight, and affordability better than any of your other options will. Your choice of rope, however, will vary based on the activity, so always make sure to bring the right equipment for the situation and stay safe!